Oh that delicious chocolate bar with the light and airy honeycomb centre…Although I never liked it at all I have a lasting memory of my Grandmother syphoning boxes of the stuff from the working men’s club for me to ‘enjoy’.
Fast forward to today and the airy honeycomb centre is reserved for cast concrete walls and contractors scratching their heads for a solution. I’m writing this blog because recently there has been a spate of Honeycombing problems that have been compounded by carrying out knee jerk reaction repairs. In panic mode swathes of decent concrete surfaces have been lost in refacing walls and columns. Blowholes obliterated, joint and board lines lost and surface flatness and tone compromised! In effect the concrete has been lost to a bag and a half of full cream fairing coats.
However…Honeycombing might look and taste awful but it’s no big deal to fix so in the wise words of the Cadbury’s Caramel Bunny: “take it easy.”
This blog is dedicated to my good friend and concrete colleague Elaine Toogood. She recently inspired me to ‘get off my horse and write my blog.’ This came about through a discussion on sandpaper of all things.
"80 grit? 120 grit or indeed True Grit?" That was the question.
Of course we weren’t discussing the thespian talents of John Wayne or even listening to Glen Campbell... because the usual focus was on Visual Concrete of course. The subject in Elaine's holster was if sandpaper was a good idea to use for cleaning concrete surfaces…
We never got round to having that shoot out before, during or even after Eco Build. So in the spirit of sharing and, as John Wayne once said, “Tomorrow hopes we have learned something from yesterday.” here's what I think:
Ok, so if you want to find your True Grit for dry or wet cleaning concrete then Diamonds are a concrete’s best friend. Flexible Nickel encrusted Diamond hand...
Curing polished concrete floors has been and continues to be a topic with illusive answers and continual questions. Thus far I have not encountered what I would call a perfect system when considering the potential ramifications of aesthetic quality that curing systems have on a floor. For industrial purposes the consensus of opinion seems to be fairly agreed but I am yet to be convinced about popular curing methods for the high end domestic flooring market. However, it is well worthy of discussion and if any proven solution arises in the future I will blog it. Also, if anyone else has a system to recommend please get in touch.
What is curing and why cure a floor?
Curing concrete is the process by which newly placed concrete is kept moist so it can keep gaining strength. For industrial flooring this is especially important in terms of increasing surface wearing capability and reducing overall maintenance costs. For the domestic scenario wearing capacity becomes less important and the ae...
Blowholes seem to have been the flavour of the month this January causing all sorts of debate and dilemma. We recognise Blowholes as a category of remedial works but within a framework that also sees them as friendly helpful nuances of fair faced concrete, giving it a sense of uncompromising honesty. Blowholes also perform a superbly useful role of helping to detract from other more urgent visual defects that warrant greater attention. Luckily they guide the eye away from nearby remedial works by being punctuated points of interest.
Grout loss occurs when the formwork is not completely sealed. Grout will find its way through the tiniest of gaps especially when the concrete is compacted. The issue of grout runs causing striations on a concrete surface is a common occurrence and a very frustrating one.
Grout will run down the face of a previously poured wall or column when the section or slab above is poured and the new formwork is not sealed properly. A grout check is normally detailed in this intersection to prevent this. However, if there is any deflection in the wall below (which is likely) a straight cut of new formwork board will not snugly fit. Sometimes a decent grout check is not enough. Proper protection should be in place for the concrete below the pour and it is wise to consider using silicone, tape and plastic sheeting sealing the older face from the new first then adding the grout check. The protection will serve the older pour and the grout check will prevent issues with the new pour. Even if the tape...